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Not your mama's grits: Southern staple stars in upscale recipes

 

This cheese grits casserole by Martha Foose is made with eggs, cheddar cheese, garlic and hot pepper sauce. The recipe included in today's story is from “Screen Doors and Sweet Tea.”

This cheese grits casserole by Martha Foose is made with eggs, cheddar cheese, garlic and hot pepper sauce. The recipe included in today's story is from “Screen Doors and Sweet Tea.”
Photo by: Courtesy Photo, “Screen Doors and Sweet Tea

 

 

Jan Swoope

 

Grits. No, we don't mean Girls Raised In the South (though I'm certainly proud to be one), or the Christian hip-hop artist GRITS, the Liberal Party of Canada, known as GRITS, or even Kid Rock's first album, "Grits Sandwiches for Breakfast." 

 

We mean, of course, that Southern staple, that maize-based porridge every self-respecting G.R.I.T. (the Girls) should know how to whip up -- and not the instant kind, either. 

 

We can thank the Native American tribes of the Southeast for this crushed corn mainstay, sometimes called sofkee or sofkey, from the Muskogee language. 

 

Southerners tend to be a bit proprietary about this signature food, and no real surprise. According to Wikipedia, three-quarters of all the grits sold in the United States are sold in the "grits belt," from Texas to Virginia. Why, Georgia even went so far as to declare grits their official prepared food in 2002. Similar bills have been introduced in South Carolina. 

 

Grits are really nothing more than coarsely-ground dried corn. (Ground finely, it's corn meal.) In their most basic comfort-food form, they could hardly be more simple to prepare. Boiling water will get you there. Just cook on low to medium heat, following directions on the box and stirring as you go. 

 

Seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, they marry perfectly with eggs, bacon, ham or sausage in a down-home breakfast. But to limit their role to the morning meal is short-sighted. We've gathered some recipes today that can elevate the grits repertoire. Even your tried-and-true shrimp and grits may benefit from reading Paula Deen's version with tasso ham, onions, leeks and green peppers. 

 

 

 

There are grits ... 

 

And then there are grits. Cookbook author Martha Foose, who recently made an appearance at the Columbus-Lowndes Public Library for Table Talk, notes that there are several good stone-ground artisanal grits available that boast superior flavor. And, she adds, "It's always good to help the little guy." Foose likes Anson Mills' product. 

 

Her cheese grits casserole recipe, from her book "Screen Doors and Sweet Tea," made with cheddar cheese, eggs, garlic and hot pepper sauce is included today. It can be assembled the day before, refrigerated and baked the next day. (Add 20 minutes to the baking time.) 

 

Whitney Miller's shrimp and sausage with grits soufflé is also in today's pages. Miller of Poplarville won the first season of MasterChef and shared her expertise in the June 2011 issue of Self magazine, saying, "My upscale version of shrimp and grits is made with pan seared shrimp, andouille sausage and roasted corn fresh off the cob." The grits soufflé is surrounded by a yellow pepper sabayon, which is the French name for a thick, creamy sauce. This takes a little time to prepare, but is purported to be absolutely mouth-watering. 

 

Grits. They aren't just for breakfast any more. 

 

 

 

CHEESE GRITS 

 

 

 

3 1/2 cups whole milk 

 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 

 

1 garlic clove, minced 

 

1 teaspoon salt 

 

1 1/4 cups quick-cooking grits 

 

8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated (2 cups) 

 

1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce 

 

1/4 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper 

 

5 large eggs 

 

1/8 teaspoon hot paprika 

 

     

     

  • Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter a shallow 2 1/2-quart baking dish. 

     

  • In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine 1 1/2 cups of the milk, 2 cups water, the butter, garlic and salt. Bring to a rolling boil.  

     

  • Slowly whisk in grits. Whisk continuously for a minute, until no lumps remain. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for five minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in cheese. 

     

  • In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 cups milk, hot sauce, pepper and eggs.  

     

  • Gradually add the hot grits, stirring to combine. Pour the grits into the prepared dish and sprinkle with paprika. 

     

  • Bake for 45 minutes, until puffy around the edges and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.
 

 

(Source: "Screen Doors and Sweet Tea," by Martha Foose) 

 

 

 

SHRIMP AND GRITS 

 

Makes two servings 

 

Prep time: 20 minutes 

 

Cook time: 15 minutes 

 

 

 

Two servings cooked grits 

 

2 tablespoons olive oil 

 

1/2 cup diced tasso ham* 

 

2 tablespoons diced leeks 

 

2 tablespoons diced onion 

 

2 tablespoons diced green peppers 

 

20 medium to large shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tails on 

 

1-2 tablespoons white wine 

 

1 cup heavy cream 

 

Salt and pepper 

 

Green onion tops, chopped 

 

(*Tasso is a Cajun ham, often hard to find outside Louisiana. May substitute salt pork, pancetta of prosciutto, but you'll have to beef up the seasoning, as tasso is very flavorful.) 

 

     

     

  • Cook grits according to package directions; set aside and keep warm. 

     

  • Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add tasso and sauté until crisp. Add diced vegetables and sauté until onions are translucent.  

     

  • Add shrimp and sauté for 30 to 45 seconds, or until pink. Remove from the pan and set aside.  

     

  • Deglaze the pan with a little white wine. Slowly add the cream and let reduce until thickened. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 

     

  • Divide grits among two serving plates. Line plate edges with shrimp (10 shrimp per serving). Pour sauce over grits. Garnish with green onion tops.
 

 

(Source: Paula Deen, Food Network) 

 

 

 

GRITS WITH CORN AND ONION GREENS 

 

Makes six to eight servings 

 

 

 

1 tablespoon olive oil 

 

1 large white or yellow onion, grated 

 

1 cup whole corn kernels, either frozen or freshly cut from the cob 

 

2 cups whole milk 

 

2 cups water 

 

Salt and freshly-ground black pepper 

 

1 cup stone-ground or coarse-ground grits 

 

2 tablespoons butter 

 

3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 3 ounces) 

 

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 

 

1/4 cup chopped fresh green onion greens 

 

     

     

  • Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the grated onion and cook, stirring, until transparent, about two minutes. Add the corn kernels and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kernels become soft, about five minutes. 

     

  • Add the milk, water, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat.  

     

  • Whisk in the grits, decrease the heat to low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until the grits are creamy and thick, 45 to 60 minutes. Stir in the butter, Parmesan, parsley and chopped green onions. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
 

 

(Source: adapted, "Bon Apetit, Y'all, Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking," simplyrecipes.com) 

 

 

 

SHRIMP AND SAUSAGE WITH GRITS SOUFFLE 

 

Makes six servings 

 

 

 

For the corn: 

 

3 ears corn, unhusked 

 

3 tablespoons unsalted butter 

 

1/2 teaspoon salt 

 

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 

 

For the sabayon: 

 

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

 

1/2 cup diced yellow onion 

 

1/4 cup diced yellow bell pepper 

 

1 garlic clove, minced 

 

1 1/2 cups heavy cream 

 

1 teaspoon salt 

 

1 large egg yolk Grits 

 

 

 

For the soufflé: 

 

2 cups whole milk 

 

1/2 cup quick-cooking grits 

 

1/2 teaspoon salt 

 

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper 

 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 

 

1/2 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (2 ounces) 

 

2 eggs, separated 

 

 

 

For the shrimp and sausage: 

 

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined 

 

1/4 teaspoon salt 

 

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 

 

Dash of cayenne pepper 

 

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

 

8 ounces andouille sausage, cut on the diagonal into 1-inch slices 

 

 

 

Garnish: 

 

1/4 cup chopped scallions 

 

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 

 

 

 

For the corn:

     

     

  • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease six 8- to 10-ounce soufflé dishes and refrigerate. 

     

  • To prepare the corn: Peel the husk back, remove the silk, and rub each cob with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Replace the husk and place on a baking sheet.  

     

  • Bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. (Leave oven on but reduce temperature to 375 degrees for the soufflés.) When the corn is cool enough to handle, pull back husks and slice kernels off the cobs into

     

Jan Swoope is the Lifestyles Editor for The Commercial Dispatch.

 

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