Parade magazine may have stolen my thunder this past Sunday, but I’m going to talk about latkes anyway. Maybe it was the column on Matzo Ball Soup or maybe it was while I was pondering what to cook on Christmas morning for my husband, sister and myself. Whatever the reason, I’ve had a hankering for latkes, that crispy potato dish brought over from Eastern Europe by the Jews.
As I researched online and in my cookbooks, I read several Q&A sessions on the difference between a latke, potato pancakes and hash browns. In the South I think we are very clear on this: Hash browns are shredded fried potatoes best done at The Huddle or Waffle House; potato cakes are cold mashed potatoes formed into cakes and fried; I’m not really sure about a potato pancake to be honest, but a latke is shredded potatoes thickened with starch (potato starch is best) and matzo meal and fried to a golden brown. They have more oomph than plain hash browns and are not eaten with ketchup.
As I thought about latkes I also thought about the migration of people who brought techniques and dishes to us that have become part of our culture. Latkes are eaten during Hanukkah to remember the Maccabees’ one-day supply of oil magically lasting for eight days. The technique of frying harkens back to the West Africans who likely used it while serving as cooks on plantations. And, of course, while the potato was first planted by the Incas and domesticated by Sir Walter Raleigh, it was the Irish who made it ubiquitous in the U.S.
While the recipe for latkes is simple with few ingredients, just like biscuits, the secret is in the technique. Some cooks insist on using a box grater while others say the grating disk of a food processor works best. The potatoes absolutely must be squeezed to release water. Eggs are needed as well as a starch to soak up some of the excess liquid. I like the method of squeezing the potato water into a bowl, letting it sit and then using the starch on the bottom of the bowl. Seasoning is critical as is the temperature of the oil. Some prefer a cast iron pan while others suggest a deep-sided pan to prevent the oil from popping out.
I am going to serve my latkes with smoked salmon and poached eggs on Christmas, but the traditional side is applesauce. I have included a recipe for homemade applesauce, which is far superior to store bought. I hope you’ll try these recipes and, as always, experiment to make them your own.
ALISON’S FAMOUS LATKES
Makes about 40 latkes
10 russet potatoes
4 yellow onions, peeled and halved
4 eggs
1/2 cup matzo meal (roughly)
Canola oil
Kosher salt
Sour cream and applesauce, for serving
(Source: the kitchn.com)
APPLE SAUCE
Courtesy marthastewart.com
4 pounds apples, such as McIntosh, Gala, and Braeburn
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
3 tablespoons dark-brown sugar (optional)
(Source: marthastewart.com)
The Dispatch Editorial Board is made up of publisher Peter Imes, columnist Slim Smith, managing editor Zack Plair and senior newsroom staff.
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