In 1997, she came to Columbus, from Murray, Ky., to teach cooking and management courses at Mississippi University for Women, where she served as founding director of the MUW Culinary Arts Institute.

But it wasn’t long before Sarah Labensky recognized the potential of Columbus for a business owner.

“(I thought) there’s so much lacking in Columbus,” said Labensky, who owns The Front Door/Back Door restaurant, The Green Olive restaurant and Wag: For Pets and Their People, an upscale pet boutique. “There’s so much room for new business here; people do appreciate new endeavors and I really think they do appreciate non-chain restaurants.

“Local people are more appreciated in a small town than they would be in a larger area,” she added. “You couldn’t compete, without national advertising, the way you could in a small town like this.”

A former attorney, Labensky holds a law degree from Vanderbilt University, a bachelor’s degree in political science and public administration from Murray (Ky.) State University and a Culinary Certificate from Scottsdale (Ariz.) Community College.

In April of 2006, she purchased The Front Door/Back Door restaurant, in downtown Columbus, where the focus is on made-to-order, fresh foods.

“We don’t own a fryer,” she laughed. “It has a healthier focus to it.”

Of the gourmet and food-oriented gifts sold in The Front Door, which is open for lunch Mondays through Saturdays and (in The Back Door) brunch on Sundays, she added, “I thought there are people here who love to cook. They’re going to want specialty items you’re not going to find in a grocery store.”

In 2007, Labensky purchased The Green Olive restaurant, which is located off Wilkins-Wise Road and is open for lunch Mondays through Fridays and dinner Mondays through Saturdays.

“The Green Olive is casual Italian (fare) and a family-friendly atmosphere,” she said. “You’re going to get traditional pasta items and things you’re not going to find in other places. And excellent martinis.”

Also in 2007, she opened Wag in downtown Columbus.

“I just love animals,” she said of her decision to combine her love of cooking with her affinity for animals. “The first Christmas I had Front Door, we started selling gourmet dog treats. They sold out over and over again. I just thought there’s a gap in the market here. There’s nothing high-end. It’s an enormous industry and that was something lacking in Columbus. I’ve always had this interest in animals and I thought it would be fun.

“Until the economy took a downturn, it was going great,” she continued. “I think people are still afraid to spend. Spending is not back to what it used to be in this town.”

Being an independent owner of three businesses has challenges, but “customer satisfaction” is a big reward, she noted.

“The biggest challenge is labor,” she explained. “By far, the biggest challenge is issues with employees, because any business really is as good as its employees. (But) when you get those kinds of pats (from strangers who compliment the business), that they will have recognized me from somewhere and take the time to say they enjoy it, makes it worthwhile.”

Her advice for other business owners?

“Don’t think it’s going to be easy,” she said. “Don’t expect to make money for a long time. You have to invest in your vision, your dream. Nurture it for a long time and get people cognizant of your business, whatever it is. You have to be in it for the long haul.”

In a town where businesses, especially restaurants, open and close in rapid-fire succession, Labensky’s businesses have enjoyed remarkable longevity.

“The difference is, with the privately owned operations, they can respond to customers’ needs or preferences immediately,” she said. “A lot of our stuff, we have special orders. We have people who come in and want things not on the menu, so we make it for them. It’s knowing your customers, knowing what their likes and dislikes are.

“Small owners locally have the luxury of adapting that way,” she continued. “If they’ll do that, I think it helps them be successful. In this economy, customer service matters. People can get food anywhere, but they come here for the intangibles. Chains don’t have that luxury.”

Labensky also has authored or co-authored 14 books, including “On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals,” “On Baking,” “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cooking Techniques and Science,” “Webster’s New World Dictionary of Culinary Arts” and “Applied Math for Food Service.”

Active in several professional organizations, she served as a past president of the 4,000-member International Association of Culinary Professionals.