At long last there’s a faint, far-off whisper of fall in the air. And even if we don’t need to don gloves and scarves, it’s time to start thinking of goblins, turkeys and, maybe, a Christmas goose. Right now in my kitchen I have the fallish aroma of red wine, onions and orange in the air. I am a host for this month’s supper club, and we have decided to celebrate that great American tradition of Oktoberfest! Well, it’s American in the sense that we are a melting pot of cultures.
First, a little background: The first Oktoberfest was held in the year 1810 in honor of the Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig’s marriage to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen. Festivities began on Oct. 12, 1810, and ended on Oct. 17 with a horse race. In the following years, the celebrations were repeated and, later, the festival was prolonged and moved forward into September. Currently it lasts 16 days and is the world’s largest folk festival.
The fun begins with the mayor of Munich tapping a keg at noon on opening day. From then on, beer flows freely.
Beer, food and traditional music are the highlights of the festival, and with free admission, crowds indulge in all.
Our host for the evening is preparing sauerbraten (sour beef), which is a German pot roast of sorts. A roast is larded (thank you, Mr. Mason of The Butcher Shop), marinated for three to five days and then slow roasted. I am responsible for sides and am cooking braised red cabbage (rotkraut), which is what smells so good right now. I read so many red cabbage recipes I got a little lost, but I absorbed that the basic plan is to incorporate some sweet and some sour. I chose a version from “Cook’s Country,” a sister publication to “Cook’s Illustrated” and “America’s Test Kitchen.” I always feel comfortable with their recipes, as I know that they test them. They also explain their thinking in the forward before the recipe.
I am also cooking a German potato salad, also from “Cook’s Country.” Again, I read at least a dozen recipes and liked this one because it has a quick pickled cucumber in it, which I think will cut the richness of the salad.
I’ll raise my glass to you! Prost!
GERMAN POTATO SALAD
Serves 8 (generously)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cucumber, peeled, quartered, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 cup white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon dried dill
Salt and pepper
3 pounds small red potatoes, scrubbed and sliced 1/4 inch thick
8 slices bacon, chopped
1 onion, minced
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup coarse-grain mustard
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
BRAISED RED CABBAGE
Serves 4 (generously)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 onion, halved and sliced thin
1 head red cabbage (2 pounds), cored and sliced 1/2 inch thick
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup frozen orange juice concentrate (they recommend Minute Maid)
1 1/2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
Salt and pepper
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
The Dispatch Editorial Board is made up of publisher Peter Imes, columnist Slim Smith, managing editor Zack Plair and senior newsroom staff.
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